Travel Diary: Grindelwald, Bern

July 19

Staid over night and in the morning took the boat to the end of the lake and there the cars to Interlaken.  In the afternoon took a drive to Lauterbrunnen and saw two falls but they were not as nice as Giesbach.  One was quite interesting the water comes out of the rock with great force through the place it has worn in the rock.

July 20 Saturday

It rained early this morning but cleared soon and Mr, Miss Ireland and Miss Forsyth and Papa, Mamma and I went to Grindelwald.  We had a nice carriage with three horses and the road ran through a valley and then went over part of a [].  The cenery was beautiful, the nicest we have seen.  We reached Grindelwald about 1 oclock and had dinner.  Then all took horses and rode up to the lower glacier which is just as high as the upper.  The path went right over rocks and stones and wound around until finally we reached a little house where we left the horses and walked a little way to the glacier.  The ice is piled up between two mountains and people have cut a grotto 30 feet into the ice.  We went in and there is the corner sat a weird little woman praying on a kind of [] and singing ” ”  Mamma said she had never believed in witches before but now she had seen one.  She did look as I should think a witch would and with the queer place she was in made it very weird.

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Glacier and Baregg Inn, Grindelwald, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, c. 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsc.07021
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Grindelwald Grotto, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, c. 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsc.07021

From the glacier we could see the Fiescherhorn all covered with snow and looking down the valley all in summer green the sight was very grand.  Where we were it was like winter all snow and ice and down in the valley it was summer.  Mr. Ireland and I walked down the mountain and so did the young ladies.  Miss Ireland said coming up she wished we could have a picture of the party on horseback and I wish we could.

We had a delightful drive back and as the sun went down it tinged the snow-covered mountain with pink and as it grew darker one star came out over the center of the Jungfrau.  This is the most delightful day we have spent.  On the way back bought a little swiss chalet from a little girl on the road and shall keep it as a memento of the day.

July 21 Sunday

Left Interlaken this morning and drove to Berne.  We had a very pleasant drive and stopped at Thun for dinner.  We reached Berne about half past four and then took a walk about the town.  It is one of the queerest we have been in.  The houses are built with an arcade under them where the side walk runs.  There are fountains in the center of the street some of them very old and people come out to wash their clothes in the middle of the street.  The cellar doors are in the street built up a foot or two and go right down under the street.  Went to where they keep some live bears because the city means bear.  There are six of them.  Then walked back and saw the clock tower and saw the clock strike six.  First a cock crows then a racession of bears come out and march in front of the king a jester pulls some ropes and strikes the [] the the man in the lower strikes the hour and at every stroke one of the bears nods his head, then the cock crows again and the performance is over.

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Clock Tower of Bern, c. 1890-1905 Library of Congress Prints and Photograph Division, Digital ID ppmsc.06808

July 22 Monday

Took a drive this morning a saw the cathedral and I bought two carved bears for a [] [].  Left on the 9.35 train for Geneva.  Arrived about 2.

July 23 Tuesday

It rained this morning but we went out around the shops and mamma bought me a sealskin cape, muff and cap.  Spent the afternoon in looking about the shops.  In the evening it cleared and there was a very fine exibition of fire works.

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Travel Diary: Switzerland

July 11 Thursday

On the way to Zurich and wrote this on the train.  Expect to arrive there at four oclock.

July 12 Friday

Bought some silk things this morning.  Taken with a very bad headace this afternoon.

July 13 — sick

July 14 — Getting better

July 15 — Went to Lecture this morning.  All right.  Went to see the lion of Lucerne it is carved on the face of the rock in commemoration of 760 soldiers and 26 officers.

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Lion of Lucerne, designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen. In honor of the Swiss Guards killed during the French Revolution in 1792. Photograph by Gurkan Myczko, 2009, released into Wikimedia Commons.

I saw the two old bridges one painted with the Dance of Death.

July 16 Tuesday

Went this morning on the lake as far as Vitsnaw where we took the cars and went up the Rigi.  The road is built very straight up the mountain.  The view from the Rigi Kulm is splendid and I counted elevenlakes and mamma tried to count the mountain peaks but there were too man.  Had dinner up there admired the view and then came down and took the boat back.  There were sheep feeding on the very edge of a precipice which looked as if they would fall off but they say that they do not.  Lucerne is a beautiful place and I like the lake very much.

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Vitznau, Railway, Rigi, Switzerland, c. 1890-1900. Image from Detroit Publishing Co., 1905. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsc.07335

July 17 Wednesday

Spent this morning looking around the town and this afternoon took a row with John.  Took a walk this evening.  Received a letter with the sad tidings of Uncle James death.

July 18 Thursday

Took the train this morning over the Bruning Pass.  Uncle Sam and John left us to go over the Rhone glacier and will meet us at Interlaken.  Had a lovely ride over the pass and the cenery is beautiful.  Took train as far as Brienz and there took boat on lake of Brienz to Giesbach Fall.  I liked that place very much.  The fall is beautiful and makes 7 cascades as it goes over.  Papa bought me an alpine staff and we walked up to the upper fall.  It was quite a climb and mamma went part way.  In the evening saw it lighted with colored lights.  It was very beautiful.

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Buch: “Luzern, Pilatus, Brunig-Route,” Cascade du Giessbach; Giessbachfall, Brienz. Image from Swiss National Library, nbdig-19122

Travel Diary: Verona, Innsbruck, Munich

Friday July 5

Left Venice for Verona this morning and am on the train.  Arrived at Verona about 12 oclock.  Went and took a drive after lunch to the old Roman gate which is     years old and then to a palace ” ” ” an old church whoes name is St. Zeno and the crypt was built in the [] century and the other in the [] it is very interesting and has two curious bronze doors of the 9th and 1th century.  In the crypt is the tomb of St. Zeno who is the patron St.  Saw the Cloister of an old monestry which was destroyed they are very handsome.  Then drove to the amphitheater which was built in the 4th century and is very well preserved.  [] had some of the stone seats that were [] [] and it is in very good repair.  There are cells where they used to keep christians and other where they keeped the wild beasts.  St. Zeno was an african was killed in the erena.  We went up to the emperors box and looked all around the theater from there.

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Basilica di San Zeno, Verona, c. 1860. Photographer: Moritz Lotze (1809-1890) Image from Wikimedia Commons.

Then drove to what they call the tomb of Juliet.  The stone coffin is open and they don’t seem to know whether it is the one or not.  Saw palce of the Capulets and it is a horrid looking old house.  But perhaps it was larger and better then.  Then went to the tomb of the Scaligers they are very handsome.

Stay here tonight and go to Insbrook tomorrow morning.

July 6 Saturday

Arrived here about noon and spent the afternoon in taking a walk about the town.  Went to a church where we saw a handsome tomb to Maximilian II of Austria which has some very handsome basse reliefs in marble on it and also saw an old organ.

July 7 Sunday

Took a walk with John this morning and went part way up the mountain had a nice view.  Left this afternoon for Munich and arrived about six oclock.

July 8 Monday

Went to the place where they keep all the carriages of the kings there are a great many there because each king has new carriage.  Then went to the Chapel of the palace which is very handsome and then through the palace.  The palace is not very nice.  The nice throne room has some handsome statues in bronze around it.  In afternoon went to a museum of the Munich artists and liked the pictures very much.  Then went through the Glyptothek and saw a statue by Canova and one by Thorvaldsen.  Took a drive in the English garden and around the city.

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Glyptothek, Munich, Bavaria. Detroit Publishing Co., c 1890-1900. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, digital ID ppmsca.00061.  Glyptothek was built by Ludwig I of Bavaria to house his collection of Greek and Roman sculptures.

July 9 Tuesday

Went to the Old Pinakothek and saw some of the famous paintings.  I liked Murillo’s Beggar Boys and Andrea Del Sarto’s Holy Family very much.  Then went to the New Pinakothek and there I liked a picture of the Last Supper very much.  Then went back to the Old and finished seeing the pictures there.  In afternoon went to the Bazilica.  It is decorated inside with frescos of the life of St. Bonaface.

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Interior of Basilica of St. Boniface, Munich, Bavaria. Detroit Publishing Co., 1905. Image created 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsca.00070

Then went to the Crystal Palace and saw the pictures.  The two I liked best are ones by Mayer of the wife of a prince who was not of noble blood presenting her children to the king and asking him to accept them and one of cat and kittens on a rug by Adam.

The Glaspalast burned down in 1931, taking with it the bulk of paintings housed there.  The subject of the Mayer (?) painting Mary wrote about may have referred to the tragic story of Inês de Castro (1325-1355), lover and posthumously-recognized wife (and exhumed and crowned queen!) of King Peter I of Portugal.  

July 10 Wednesday

Papa went to see a Lunatic Asylum this morning and M. and I went to the [] and saw a picture of the Fall of Man and some other good pictures.  Then went to the Fraukirke and saw the tomb of Ludwig the Bavarian which has life size bronze figures around it.

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Frauenkirche, Munich. Image from Die Gartenlaube, published by Ernst Keil’s Nachfolgar, 1894. View is from the roof of St. Michael’s Church, by Rober Assmus. Image from Wikimedia Commons.

The church has some handsome stained glass windows in it.  When Papa came back went to the National Museum and saw Mozart’s piano and the coronation robes of King Maximilian the II.  Then went to the Panorama of Rome where the Triumphul entree of Constine.  It was very interesting and good.

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Das alte Rom mit dem Triumphzuge Kaiser Constantin’s im Jahre 312 n. Chr. Created 1888 by Josef Buhlmann and Alexander von Wagner. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.

Travel Diary: Miss Mary in Venice

Who goes to Venice in July?  Then as now, Americans!  And I would have been shocked if Miss Mary had NOT written “Dodge” for Doge.    

Tuesday July 2

Staid over night at Milan and this morning wrote a letter to grandma.  Took the train for Venice this afternoon and am on the train now.  Arrived at Venice and went to Hotel Europe.  Found two letters there for me, one from Mary and one from Agnes.  There was a boat all decorated with colored lanterns filled with musicians and we had some lovely singing.

Wednesday July 3

Went to St. Marks Church and saw the tomb of Dodge Andrea Dandolo.  The church is beautiful and is all decorated with mosiacs represinting Cenes from the Bible.  Then went into the Palace of the Dodges and went through it and saw a great many paintings by Titian, Tintereto and others.  Saw the box where the people put the letter against a person when they wanted him killed, also the Council Chamber of the Council of three and ”  ” there.

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Bocca di Leone, Doge’s Palace, Venice. Photograph by Deror Avi, 2009. From Wikimedia Commons.

Saw largest oil painting in the world by Tintreto, Paradise.

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Tintoretto (1518-1594): Paradise, c.1565 Image from Web Gallery of Art, Wikimedia Commons

Then we went down into the dungeon of criminals and politian prisoners.  The latter were worse.  Saw cells where Dodge Faleri and genral Carmagnola were confined.  The cells are awful and I don’t see how any one could live in one many days.  We went part way over the Bridge of Sighs.

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Marino Faliero Dux LV, painting by Francisco Pradilla y Ortiz, 1883. Museo del Prado. Faliero was 55th Doge of Venice (1354), beheaded in 1355 for conspiracy to wrest control from the Venetian aristocrats.

The Peassi San Marco is lovely and I like the doves very much.  The clock tower is very nice.  In the afternoon went the Church of the Scalzi where there are a number of beautiful marble alters which belonged to noble families one urn is a wax Ecce Homo made by a monk the face of Christ is quite good.  Went to Church of Maria Gloria dei Frari where we saw the tomb of Canova which he designed for Titian and soon after died then one of his pupils made his tomb from the design.  It is very beautiful.  Also saw tomb of Titian which is beautiful it is not made by Canova’s design for that was for his tomb in Venice.  There is a black chest with red crosses on it [] the tomb of the genral whose cell we saw in the Dodges Palace, the Republic would not let the family have any [] of a [].  In the evening went to the St. Mark Pattasi.

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Doge’s Palace and Piazzetta, Venice, 1890-1900. Detroit Publishing Co., under license from Photogrob Zurich. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, digital ID ppmsc.06650

Thursday July 4

Went to Palace where there is the finest plaster ceiling in the world.  Then to a palace where there is the handsomest stair case it is beautiful.  In afternoon went walking about and looking in the shop windows and walked over the Rialto Bridge.  In the evening took a gondolo ride out into the harbor which was delightful came back by the Grand Canal and saw it by moonlight it was delightful.  The same people were singing in front of the hotel that were the first night we were here.  I wore my American flag all day but it has not seemed a bit like Fourth of July altho I have had a splendid time.

Travel Diary: Italian Lakes

Friday June 28

We intended to go to the lakes this afternoon but John and Uncle Sam came so we staid.

Saturday June 29

Left this morning for the lakes.  Took the train to the foot of Lake Maggorie and then took the boat up the lake to Bavino arrived there about 12.10.  The lake is very pretty and reminded me of Lake George only the mountains are higher and the lake is prettier.  In the afternoon took a long drive to a little lake called Orta.  The cenery very pretty.  When we got to the lake took a little row boat and went to a little island in the lake where there is a little old church and a school for boys taught by priests.

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Isola San Giulio, Lake Orta. Painting by Sir Edward John Poynter, 1898. Image from Wikigallery.org

In the church there is an old pulpit of the fourth century.  Staid over night at Bavano.

Vegetation on Lakes Figs, olives, mulberry

Sunday June 30

Spent the morning at Bavino and started on about twelve oclock.  Took boat up the lake to Polizzo and took a narrow gage railway to Lake Lugano.  The railway ran through some of the wildest country I ever we through on a railroad.  We followed the course of a little stream which is very pretty.  Then we took a steam boat up Lake Lungano.  It is the most beautiful of the lakes.  The mountains come right down to the water and some of the mountains are [] almost to the top.  Some of the houses are built on the edge of precipice and away up the mountains where I don’t see how the people get to them.  Little chapels are built on the top of mountains too.  Got off at the end of the lake and took train to Maggiore Lake Como.

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Lugano from Massagno, Tessin, Switzerland. Published by Detroit Publishing Co., 1905, Print No. 6696. Photograph c. 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, ID ppmsc.07802

Monday July 1

Staid at Maggio over night and the next morning Uncle Samuel and I took a walk up the mountain back of the hotel and went through a silk factory where they gave me a pretty piece of silk not woven or dyed.  The walk up was very pretty and we went farther up the mountain and had a very nice view.  Took the boat to Como in the afternoon and had a very pleasant sail down the lake.  Took train at Como and came back to Milan.

Travel Diary: On to Milan

Sunday June 23

Started early this morning for Milan.  We stopped over night at Aix la Bains

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Thermal Baths Place, Aix-les-Bains, c. 1890-1900. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsc.04914

and get to Milan tomorrow evening.  A little while after leaving Dijon were delayed about 1 hour because there was a mountain torrent running over the track.  We finally got started again and went through the water up to the first step of the car.  Arrived at Aix la Bain about 11 oclock when we ought to have arrived a 8.40.  Stopped at Grand Bergues Hotel which is very clean and nice.

Monday June 24

Left at 7 oclock for Milan beautiful cenery all the way to Turin.  The mountains are beautiful with lovely little silver streams coming down the sides and making waterfalls.  Some of the mountains had snow on the top.  We went through the Mont Cenis Tunnel which is about 8 miles long and took us about 30 minutes to go through it.  Arrived at Milan about quarter of six and are stopping at the Contentias Hotel which we like very much.

Tuesday June 25

Went to the Reflectory to see Reonarda DeVinci’s “Last Supper” which is a fresco on the wall.  But it so banged up that you can’t tell much about it and there were some copies near it that you could get a much better idea from than the original.  One copy is very good.  Then we drove to the Arch of Peace which was built by Napolion and is very handsome.  Went to the cathedral which is beautiful.

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Duomo di Milano, photographer Roberto Rive (18? – 1889). From Wikimedia Commons.

Went into a room and saw some thing to hold relics, priest’s robes and such.  Went down to the cript and tomb of Saint Calo Borromeo the room where the tomb is is finished in solid silver representing the cenes in the life of the Saint.  The karcophagus is of solid silver with bas relif and is very handsome.  They worked the coffin up and we saw through the glass and saw the saint’s body.  It is dressed in embordered clothes embordered with gold and on his head a cap all gold and jewel.  There are a great many jewels in the coffin and a beautiful cloak made of emeralds and diamonds given by Marie Teresie.  The emeralds are the largest I ever saw.

In the afternoon walked in the arcade which is very handsome and a great many pretty stores in it.  Bought some things.  Attended part of the service at the Cathedral.  It was very queer.

Wednesday June 26

Went to Art Gallery and saw Raphels Marriage of “Joseph and Mary,” a very good picture of Abraham sending Hagar wife and boy to the wilderness and many others.

Thursday June 27

Rained this morning and [] I took a walk went into Cathedral — Papa went to an [] Asylum.  Took walk afternoon and bought dress for me.  Wish Uncle Sam and John would come, I am getting very tired of this place.

Travel Diary: Miss Mary at the Paris Exposition, 1889

June 22 Saturday

Went to the Exibition this morning and went to the American exibit and Papa and Mama bought a very pretty lamp for Madamislle which she likes very much.  Then went to the exibit of paintings and saw one beautiful one of Bougerau pictures.  It is the Virgin with Christ in her arms and cherubs around.  The cherubs are painted splendidly and the picture is one of the most lovely I ever saw.  We also saw one of Rosa Bonnehes, cattle ploughing.

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Ploughing in Nevers, 1849. Painting by Rosa Bonheur (1822-1899). Musee de Orsay.

Packed all afternoon.  In the evening went to the exibition again.  Miss Baker came to dinner.  The exibition grounds were all lighted up and when we got there a great many people were standing on the bridge over the Seine and waiting for something.  We had just got to the Eifel tower when there was a shout of “Carnot” and a carriage drove by but I could not see the president there was such a crowd.  Just after the carriage passed there was a noise like a cannon and the Eifel tower was all alumeted by burning red lights.  It looked as if it was all on fire and [] smoke coming out the top like a volcano.  They allumeted twice and each time it was beautiful.

After this they set off the electric fountain.  There are lots of little fountains near it and when they set off the big one the little ones played too.  The color of the fountain changed and the [] would be another color from the top then the little fountain would be alternately the colors of the large one.  There was blue and green, gold, silver, yellow, pink, [] and orange.  Some times the [] would be all the colors of the rainbow and the top one color.  The main building was all lighted and F. R. over the door in fire.  The light on the Eifel Tower would change and some times it would shine on the figure on top of the building and make it look like gold.  One of the buildings was lighted with red and green lights and another had a flag with red, white and blue stripes in fire, with a large globe all lighted inside and a figure standing on it with a lighted torch in each hand.  The Trockedaro had two lines of lights around it.  On every step of the cascade was a line of lights and a great many vases all around the cascade with a large bouquet of lights in each.

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La Tour Eiffel et le Palais du Trocadero, 1889. From the Henry Clay Cochrane Collection, USMC Archives, Quantico.