Travel Diary: Verona, Innsbruck, Munich

Friday July 5

Left Venice for Verona this morning and am on the train.  Arrived at Verona about 12 oclock.  Went and took a drive after lunch to the old Roman gate which is     years old and then to a palace ” ” ” an old church whoes name is St. Zeno and the crypt was built in the [] century and the other in the [] it is very interesting and has two curious bronze doors of the 9th and 1th century.  In the crypt is the tomb of St. Zeno who is the patron St.  Saw the Cloister of an old monestry which was destroyed they are very handsome.  Then drove to the amphitheater which was built in the 4th century and is very well preserved.  [] had some of the stone seats that were [] [] and it is in very good repair.  There are cells where they used to keep christians and other where they keeped the wild beasts.  St. Zeno was an african was killed in the erena.  We went up to the emperors box and looked all around the theater from there.

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Basilica di San Zeno, Verona, c. 1860. Photographer: Moritz Lotze (1809-1890) Image from Wikimedia Commons.

Then drove to what they call the tomb of Juliet.  The stone coffin is open and they don’t seem to know whether it is the one or not.  Saw palce of the Capulets and it is a horrid looking old house.  But perhaps it was larger and better then.  Then went to the tomb of the Scaligers they are very handsome.

Stay here tonight and go to Insbrook tomorrow morning.

July 6 Saturday

Arrived here about noon and spent the afternoon in taking a walk about the town.  Went to a church where we saw a handsome tomb to Maximilian II of Austria which has some very handsome basse reliefs in marble on it and also saw an old organ.

July 7 Sunday

Took a walk with John this morning and went part way up the mountain had a nice view.  Left this afternoon for Munich and arrived about six oclock.

July 8 Monday

Went to the place where they keep all the carriages of the kings there are a great many there because each king has new carriage.  Then went to the Chapel of the palace which is very handsome and then through the palace.  The palace is not very nice.  The nice throne room has some handsome statues in bronze around it.  In afternoon went to a museum of the Munich artists and liked the pictures very much.  Then went through the Glyptothek and saw a statue by Canova and one by Thorvaldsen.  Took a drive in the English garden and around the city.

The_Glypothek_(Art_Gallery)_Munich_Bavaria_Germany
Glyptothek, Munich, Bavaria. Detroit Publishing Co., c 1890-1900. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, digital ID ppmsca.00061.  Glyptothek was built by Ludwig I of Bavaria to house his collection of Greek and Roman sculptures.

July 9 Tuesday

Went to the Old Pinakothek and saw some of the famous paintings.  I liked Murillo’s Beggar Boys and Andrea Del Sarto’s Holy Family very much.  Then went to the New Pinakothek and there I liked a picture of the Last Supper very much.  Then went back to the Old and finished seeing the pictures there.  In afternoon went to the Bazilica.  It is decorated inside with frescos of the life of St. Bonaface.

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Interior of Basilica of St. Boniface, Munich, Bavaria. Detroit Publishing Co., 1905. Image created 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsca.00070

Then went to the Crystal Palace and saw the pictures.  The two I liked best are ones by Mayer of the wife of a prince who was not of noble blood presenting her children to the king and asking him to accept them and one of cat and kittens on a rug by Adam.

The Glaspalast burned down in 1931, taking with it the bulk of paintings housed there.  The subject of the Mayer (?) painting Mary wrote about may have referred to the tragic story of Inês de Castro (1325-1355), lover and posthumously-recognized wife (and exhumed and crowned queen!) of King Peter I of Portugal.  

July 10 Wednesday

Papa went to see a Lunatic Asylum this morning and M. and I went to the [] and saw a picture of the Fall of Man and some other good pictures.  Then went to the Fraukirke and saw the tomb of Ludwig the Bavarian which has life size bronze figures around it.

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Frauenkirche, Munich. Image from Die Gartenlaube, published by Ernst Keil’s Nachfolgar, 1894. View is from the roof of St. Michael’s Church, by Rober Assmus. Image from Wikimedia Commons.

The church has some handsome stained glass windows in it.  When Papa came back went to the National Museum and saw Mozart’s piano and the coronation robes of King Maximilian the II.  Then went to the Panorama of Rome where the Triumphul entree of Constine.  It was very interesting and good.

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Das alte Rom mit dem Triumphzuge Kaiser Constantin’s im Jahre 312 n. Chr. Created 1888 by Josef Buhlmann and Alexander von Wagner. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.
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