July 31 Wednesday
Took a walk around town and it is the prettiest town we have seen. Went to the [Trinkhalle] where the hot water from the springs comes and the people come to drink. The town is full of trees and a little stream runs through it which makes it very pretty. Went to some very pretty shops and bought some things. In the afternoon took a drive to the castle which is a very picturesk ruins. It was destroyed by the French in 17 uncle Louis XIV. From here we got a lovely view of the surrounding country and Baden Baden. In the evening went to the [Conversationshaus] and heard a very nice concert.
August 1 Thursday
Left this morning about nine oclock for Heidelberg and arrived about noon. After lunch drove to the castle which is the finest ruin in Germany. It is very large and has a great many old carved stone figures on the out side of it. The oldest part was built in 1294 and other electors added to it. In the cellar is  tun which holds 50,000 gallons and a statue of the court jester who drank 30 bottles of wine a day and also a clock made by him. It has a clock face on the outside but when you pull a string a foxes tail flies out.
Karl Lange: Grosses Fass (Heidelberg Tun), 1896. From Karl Pfaff, “Heidelberg and Umgebung,” Heidelberg: J Horning, 1902. Digital image from Wikimedia Commons.
We went into the museum which has things connected with the castle and also the engagement ring of Luther. Got a nice of  outside a church with stalls to sell things in a workshop built around it and also the university. Took the train at 3.50 for [Mainz] and arrived about six oclock. After dinner took a ride on the street car and saw the cathedral which is very queer looking and has five towers on it each one entirely different from the other and also the statue of Gudenberg.
Gutenberg memorial with Mainz Cathedral in background, 2005. Imgage by Ingo Staudacher, released into Wikimedia Commons.
August 2 Friday
It rained this morning but  after a while. Took a steamer for Cologne. Saw a great many old castles ruined some restored and was very much interested in them. Saw two castles that they call the Cat and the Mouse. In the Mouse bishop [Hatto] was eaten up by mice because he had some peasants burned in his farm.
(Much confusion here, with Maus Burg and Katz Burg being mixed in with the legend of Archbishop Hatto of Maiz and the Mäuseturm (or Mouse Tower), a stone tower on a small island in the Rhine near Bingen am Rhein)
Saw some castles restored and they looked very pictureske. A number of castles belong to the Prince and Princess of Prussia. Saw the ruin of Reichenberg and the legend about it is that the seven beauty daughters of Reichenberg were bathing in the Rhine and some changed into rocks. We saw some rocks but did not know which they were.
(More confusion with castles and legends: The seven sisters lived in the Schönburg, and were heartless coquettes who refused to marry the knights who came to ask for their hands in marriage. The river god turned them into rocks for their mockery of the worthy suitors. Such a typically mysogynistic fairy tale.)
Schoenburg and Oberwesel, the Rhine, Germany, c. 1890-1910. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsca.00873
The ruined Rheinfels castle is very large and handsome. Saw the ruin of Rolandseck castle which was built by Roland a nefiew of Charlemagne to overlook the island of [Nonnenwerth] where his betrothed Hildegard had taken the veil. The legend is that Roland went to the wars and Hildegard heard that he was killed and took the veil and when he came back he built the castle to overlook the nunnery and when he heard she died he was killed by the news.
Farther down the river we passed near the ruined castle of Drachenfels which is one of the most pictureske castles on the river and near it a new castle which is very handsome.
Ruin of Castle Drachenfels in Koenigswinter, Germany, c. 1890-1905. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsca.00823
Arrived at Cologne about half past four and went to the  Hotel. Took a walk and went to the Cathedral. The front is more beautiful than the Milan one but the interior is not as well proportioned I don’t think.
Cologne Cathedral, Germany. Image c.1885 by Anselm Schmitz (1831-1903). Wikimedia Commons.
The stained glass windows are beautiful. We went into the sacristy and saw the gold and silver box all set with precious stones that they say holds the skulls of the three wise men. It is the finest thing of the kind in the world. After dinner took a drive about the city and went through the new part. The houses are all built in blocks but they are very handsome. The handsomest thing of the kind we have seen.
August 3 Saturday
Took a carriage and drove through the old part of the city and in the window of a house saw two wooden horse heads. The legend about it is this at the time of the plague this man who owned the house wife died and they buried her in the church of the apostles and she was buried with her wedding ring on. The grave diggers noticed this and after the funeral dug the body up to take the ring off. This woke her from her trance and she went to her house and asked admission. When her husband heard who was at the door he said my wife is dead and she would no more come back than my horse would look out of the loft of my house. Just then he heard the stamping of hoofs. And the horses heads were put there to commemorate this event. We looked into the Church of the Apostles. And went into the Church of St. [Gereon] which is finished in fresco which is very pretty and it also has very pretty stained glass. Then went to the Church of Saint Ursula where we saw the bones of the 11,000 virgins that were killed by the Huns at Cologne.
Treasury of St. Ursula, Cologne, the Rhine, Germany, c. 1890-1900. Image from Detroit Publishing Co., 1905. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Digital ID ppmsca.00812.
The bones are arranged in glass cases along the walls of part of the Church and in another part of the church the walls are filled with bones and little pinholes to look at them through in the walls. There is a monument to St. Ursula and her bones in the Church and a wine jug that they say came from the marriage feast at Cana in the sacristy but we did not go in.
Then we went to the Cathedral and then to the shops. Left for Amsterdam at 1.40 and was late so arrived about 8 oclock. Saw lots of wind mills on the way.