Travel Diary: Miss Mary in Venice

Who goes to Venice in July?  Then as now, Americans!  And I would have been shocked if Miss Mary had NOT written “Dodge” for Doge.    

Tuesday July 2

Staid over night at Milan and this morning wrote a letter to grandma.  Took the train for Venice this afternoon and am on the train now.  Arrived at Venice and went to Hotel Europe.  Found two letters there for me, one from Mary and one from Agnes.  There was a boat all decorated with colored lanterns filled with musicians and we had some lovely singing.

Wednesday July 3

Went to St. Marks Church and saw the tomb of Dodge Andrea Dandolo.  The church is beautiful and is all decorated with mosiacs represinting Cenes from the Bible.  Then went into the Palace of the Dodges and went through it and saw a great many paintings by Titian, Tintereto and others.  Saw the box where the people put the letter against a person when they wanted him killed, also the Council Chamber of the Council of three and ”  ” there.


Bocca di Leone, Doge’s Palace, Venice. Photograph by Deror Avi, 2009. From Wikimedia Commons.

Saw largest oil painting in the world by Tintreto, Paradise.


Tintoretto (1518-1594): Paradise, c.1565 Image from Web Gallery of Art, Wikimedia Commons

Then we went down into the dungeon of criminals and politian prisoners.  The latter were worse.  Saw cells where Dodge Faleri and genral Carmagnola were confined.  The cells are awful and I don’t see how any one could live in one many days.  We went part way over the Bridge of Sighs.


Marino Faliero Dux LV, painting by Francisco Pradilla y Ortiz, 1883. Museo del Prado. Faliero was 55th Doge of Venice (1354), beheaded in 1355 for conspiracy to wrest control from the Venetian aristocrats.

The Peassi San Marco is lovely and I like the doves very much.  The clock tower is very nice.  In the afternoon went the Church of the Scalzi where there are a number of beautiful marble alters which belonged to noble families one urn is a wax Ecce Homo made by a monk the face of Christ is quite good.  Went to Church of Maria Gloria dei Frari where we saw the tomb of Canova which he designed for Titian and soon after died then one of his pupils made his tomb from the design.  It is very beautiful.  Also saw tomb of Titian which is beautiful it is not made by Canova’s design for that was for his tomb in Venice.  There is a black chest with red crosses on it [] the tomb of the genral whose cell we saw in the Dodges Palace, the Republic would not let the family have any [] of a [].  In the evening went to the St. Mark Pattasi.


Doge’s Palace and Piazzetta, Venice, 1890-1900. Detroit Publishing Co., under license from Photogrob Zurich. Image from Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, digital ID ppmsc.06650

Thursday July 4

Went to Palace where there is the finest plaster ceiling in the world.  Then to a palace where there is the handsomest stair case it is beautiful.  In afternoon went walking about and looking in the shop windows and walked over the Rialto Bridge.  In the evening took a gondolo ride out into the harbor which was delightful came back by the Grand Canal and saw it by moonlight it was delightful.  The same people were singing in front of the hotel that were the first night we were here.  I wore my American flag all day but it has not seemed a bit like Fourth of July altho I have had a splendid time.

Travel Diary: Italian Lakes

Friday June 28

We intended to go to the lakes this afternoon but John and Uncle Sam came so we staid.

Saturday June 29

Left this morning for the lakes.  Took the train to the foot of Lake Maggorie and then took the boat up the lake to Bavino arrived there about 12.10.  The lake is very pretty and reminded me of Lake George only the mountains are higher and the lake is prettier.  In the afternoon took a long drive to a little lake called Orta.  The cenery very pretty.  When we got to the lake took a little row boat and went to a little island in the lake where there is a little old church and a school for boys taught by priests.


Isola San Giulio, Lake Orta. Painting by Sir Edward John Poynter, 1898. Image from

In the church there is an old pulpit of the fourth century.  Staid over night at Bavano.

Vegetation on Lakes Figs, olives, mulberry

Sunday June 30

Spent the morning at Bavino and started on about twelve oclock.  Took boat up the lake to Polizzo and took a narrow gage railway to Lake Lugano.  The railway ran through some of the wildest country I ever we through on a railroad.  We followed the course of a little stream which is very pretty.  Then we took a steam boat up Lake Lungano.  It is the most beautiful of the lakes.  The mountains come right down to the water and some of the mountains are [] almost to the top.  Some of the houses are built on the edge of precipice and away up the mountains where I don’t see how the people get to them.  Little chapels are built on the top of mountains too.  Got off at the end of the lake and took train to Maggiore Lake Como.


Lugano from Massagno, Tessin, Switzerland. Published by Detroit Publishing Co., 1905, Print No. 6696. Photograph c. 1890-1900. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, ID ppmsc.07802

Monday July 1

Staid at Maggio over night and the next morning Uncle Samuel and I took a walk up the mountain back of the hotel and went through a silk factory where they gave me a pretty piece of silk not woven or dyed.  The walk up was very pretty and we went farther up the mountain and had a very nice view.  Took the boat to Como in the afternoon and had a very pleasant sail down the lake.  Took train at Como and came back to Milan.