Travel Diary: Miss Mary Visits Warwick Castle, Stratford-upon-Avon

June 4 Tuesday

Drove to Warwick and went through the castle.  We saw a great many curious weapons that were very old, a good many paintings by Rubens, some by Vankyde [sic] and one the “Assumption of the Virgin” by Rubens.  I sat in an old chair which Queen Anne and Queen Elizabeth sat in.  We saw their tables, one of petrified [] snails and such things and two of mosaics, one of which belonged to Marie Antoinette.  They were very finely inlaid and very handsome.  The great hall was burned but rebuilt just as it was.  It looked as I suppose halls of the time of the knights looked and had armour around it and a wooden horse with a rider on him all covered with armour.  In the same room is an old bowl of metal, it contained [] about 12 gals.  The guide said that when the present earl came of age it was filled three times with presents.

Image by the Detroit Publishing Co., 1905. Views of England, in the Photochrom Print Collection, Library of Congress.

The buildings are built around an inner court with a moat around it, which is all overgrown and no water in it.  In one corner of the court is Guy’s Tower which is 150 or 120 feet high and on the other corner Caesar’s tower.  The other end and side are rivers.  Opposite where the living part is there is a gate into the garden and we went in and saw the Warwick Vase which was found in a lake near Tivola [sic].

Warwick Vase, originally excavated from Tivoli, rebuilt and now in the Burrell Collection, Glasgow

There is a very pretty view from here.  Then some of us went up in Guy’s Tower there are 133 steps that wind round and round but when you get to the top there is a beautiful view of the surrounding country.  On one side lies Warwick and farther distance Lemington [sic].  On the other castle and the lovely country with the river Avon rising through it.  It was a view well worth remembering.  The entrance is between two stone walls all ivy and shaded by trees and [] the castle the lawn is at the sides [].  It is very pretty.

Then we drove to Kenilworth a lovely drive through the country.  Saw the castle and the room that Amy Robart occupied.  It is very lovely at the castle it is so picturesque with the ivy all over the walls.  Then we came back to the hotel and had lunch and John and Uncle Sam took the train for London.  Before we went to Warwick Castle we went to St. Mary’s Church and Beauchamp Chapel.  In the chapel are the tombs of Lord Leister [sic] of Scott’s novel Kenilworth and his wife.  She is showed a little above him to show that she inherits the title and has her coat of arms above his.  There were some other tombs of the Leister family there too.

After lunch at the hotel we drove to Stratford on Avon.  We had a beautiful drive with some very pretty views on the way.  First we went to the old church where Shakespeare is buried and over his grave is bust of him in color.  Then we drove to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage and I sat on the old settle where Shakespeare courted her.  We then went upstairs and saw an old [] bedstead which belonged to the Hathaway family.  Then we went to the house where Shakespeare was born and saw the room he was born in.  After which we went through the Shakespeare Memorial Hall with the library, picture gallery and theater, where on the anniversary of his birth they have one of the [] actors or actresses act one of his plays.  Outside of the hall is a monument to Shakespeare with four of the characters of his plays, one on each side of the statue of himself.  There is a lovely view of the old church and the river Avon from the hall.  Before we went to his birth place we had a drink of water from a very pretty monument presented to his memory.  Then we walked to the Red House Inn and saw the chair in which Washington Irving sat and the church he wrote about.  We then drove back to Lemington.

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